Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Last week, part 2 - Super Shitsurei

So Friday I had my first really big shitsurei, when I was late to the dinner party for Peter’s rotary club. I thought my okaasan said that we were going to meet up at 6:30, so I decided to exchange my JR rail pass voucher and book my ticket back to Tokyo. Finished up at 6:20ish, so I felt pretty good about making it on time. But it turns out that the party was to start at 6:30 – my okaasan had wanted to meet up at around 6. I ended up being about 5 minutes late to the dinner, which might not seem like much by American standards, but is hugely disrespectful in Japan. I think I spent most of the evening trying to apologize to the people at my table in wonderfully broken Japanese (already suck +freaking out about offending everyone = amazing levels of retardation). Even though everyone said it was ok, I’m pretty sure it wasn’t. Gah. I felt horrible afterwards. I’m not sure if my host mom is still offended or not. Ahhhhh!!!
In other news, the independent study presentation is Tuesday. It’s going to be such a terrible time for everyone, but especially me. My topic is Shintoism and Jinjyas in Hakodate, but I have virtually no information. I did three interviews, one of which was my host mom. Plus, my project became significantly less ambitious as the weeks progressed and I realized both 1) how little Japanese I understood, especially when talking about God and the afterlife, and 2) how much work it would take to actually research it. I started out planning to investigate how Shinto was able to survive after Buddhism and Christianity came to Japan, especially focusing on how it blended with Buddhism (most Japanese people are Shinto, but practice Buddhist rites for deaths and such). As the weeks went on, however, I simplified it down to the point where it’s now a presentation about etiquette in a jinjya and the format of the service. It’s so terrible and unprofessional. Plus, I haven’t practiced my presentation at all. It’s going to be miserable. Luckily, most of the other kids seem to have BSed their projects to roughly the same extent, which is some solace. But there are the few kids who actually have really intense and legit projects: Max focused on the upcoming election, interviewing politicians and analyzing Hakodate’s governmental framework, while Victor did a cross-analysis of Hakodate’s agriculture in the literary realm and in practice (I think – I didn’t really understand his explanation). Gah. It’s going to be terrible.
Plus, the speech contest is Friday. Not only is my speech now twice as long (thanks to sensei’s edits), my okaasan invited a bunch of her friends to come see me talk. Now I can make a fool of myself in front of the entire town, yay!

Last week

So this week I had a bunch more really cool culture classes that made me feel really awesome at being Japanese, not going to lie. First was a lecture about Japanese linguistic structure (which might not sound so cool to anyone, but was actually pretty interesting) on Monday the 20th. Most of it was over my head and the question and answer session made me realize how many HIF kids are going to become the pretentious intellectual Ivy League stereotype. But the professor did talk about some cool things, like how the kanji system is possibly one of the worst writing systems Japan could have adopted. It was pretty cool. There were also some interesting history tidbits that were cool to learn about.
Next up was the tea ceremony class (Wednesday the 22nd), which was the most difficult thing ever. Soooo many rules, gah. Well, it wasn’t so bad (and again, with the episode of America’s Next Top Model behind me, I knew a good chunk of the stuff at the beginning. Yeah, I’ve accepted that you all will mock me. I’m ok with that), but there were a lot of things to pay attention to. Starting with opening the door and bowing. Before we entered the room, we got little fans (in true tea ceremony fashion) that we were to keep with us. Turns out those fans also have strict rules about where they can be placed and how they need to be held, none of which I knew. Every five seconds, one of the assistant ladies would come up to me and tell me I had my fan in the wrong place. There was just no way I could keep up with it; the fan seems to move before you do anything. For example, when you first enter, the fan needs to be placed between you and the host of the tea ceremony. If you don’t do so, you’re placing yourself at the same level as the host, which is a biiiiig 失礼(shitsurei – rudeness). However, before receiving the tea and the snack, you have to move the fan to your left side. It needs to be sufficiently back to be out of view, but it must not rest on one of the lines of the tatami mats. Before you eat, it should be moved behind you, again neither resting on one of the lines of the tatami mat nor touching your feet. Both big mistakes. Anyway, other than the fan, your own movements also have to be extremely controlled. When you enter the room, you have to open the door in a special way – you open the door approximately halfway with the hand closer to the intersection of the door and the wall. You then open it the rest of the way with the other hand. Before entering, bow. Then, stand up, walk straight till you are in front of the scroll. Bow to the scroll once, but without showing the fan. Look at the flower set up by the scroll for a second or two (not too long to delay the ceremony, not too short to dismiss the work put into setting up the flower), then bow again. Then, move to your seat. When the sweets come out, you always have to pick up the chopsticks from the top only – no fingers can be beneath the chopsticks. Place your other hand on the bowl, take one sweet, move it to your paper, and make sure to clean the chopsticks on one of the upper corners of your paper. If using your right hand, use the right corner. If left-handed, use the left corner. And that’s before you have to deal with getting and drinking the tea. And of course, this is when you have the easy job of being the guest. The host’s job is even harder. Whaaaa. It was insanely difficult, but really fun. We all sucked at approximately the same level, which made it ok.
Other than the culture class, the week was pretty uneventful. Wednesday was my birthday (unfortunately), which made me officially 19. Don’t want to think about actually being in my last year of teenagerdom. But Thanh did remember it was my birthday and brought me a whole bunch of food which I’m pretty sure cost a lot of money. She had cheesecake, mochi, two kinds of Japanese sweets, and rice puffs. It was really nice of her, but I really hope it wasn’t that expensive. But I think it was, because I saw the cheesecake in the eki, where it was being sold for like… 1700 yen or something. Ack, Thanh! Why?? But it was really nice, and she’s a good friend. Other than that, my host mom had a conference, so we couldn’t really do anything. She did make me a cake the next day, though, which was super nice of her. Plus, the cake was amazing – cream and strawberry. Deliciousness.

Monday, July 20, 2009

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Soooo short blog post today (actually today, Monday) – I decided to try and save some money by not renewing my train ticket to get to Hakodate eki every morning. The ticket is about 80 dollars a month and I’ve only got 3 weeks left, so I figured it wasn’t really worth it. So I’m now going in to the center by bike, which is really cool so far. It’s about an 8-9 mile trip each way, so it gets in a good amount of exercise.

Also, pictures coming soon - I have to bring my camera in tomorrow, and I have a lot of new pictures (somewhere around 300? - I've been really bad with uploading).

A week of lows and highs - Friday 7/17

So Japan has been really excellent so far, and I’ve really enjoyed everything up to this point. This last week, however, I really started to miss home a lot. I don’t exactly know what brought it about, but for some reason, I got very very homesick at the beginning of the week. I think it came from a combination of not having internet access over the semester break (and, consequently, being unable to talk to friends), not having spoken to my family in close to a month, and a kind of full realization that I’ll only have 12 days after I get back to hang out with my friends. I don’t know, something about it just made me really want to go back. I think it definitely reflected in my schoolwork, which I am pretty disappointed about. I like to think I’m good at separating emotion from my work, and usually am, but this time was a real slump. Didn’t do any real pre-reading for class, so I was lost most of the first few days (and sensei definitely caught on, after he called on me for approximately three different grammar points and I had no idea how to use any of them). Plus, the fact that the HIF kids are becoming vultures for internet isn’t helping. Towards the beginning of the program, I would almost assuredly get internet if I went straight to the computer lounge after class and ate my lunch there. Now, however, because our class gets out 5 minutes later than the others every day (our teacher is… blah), I get to the lounge and all the cords are taken. Which also is why I haven’t been able to update the blog in a very long time. Sorry, by the way. To all… 5 people reading this. But yeah, in any case, the first half of the week was a very trying time.
Luckily, I got over this phase pretty quickly, which helped out a lot. I don’t exactly know what did it, but it’s good that it happened. Because it definitely allowed me to focus on the positives of this week, which were pretty important (and definitely milestones of my progress): for instance, this week, another foreign student came to stay with us for the week. He’s from Holland, doing a program called “Lion’s Club” or something to learn about cultures around the world.
Unfortunately for him, he does not speak any Japanese. And my host mother does not speak any English. Problem? Solution: I “translate” for the two. This is actually something of a comically pathetic sight: see, not only is Holland child unable to speak Japanese, he is deaf. However, he was placed into normal school and never learned sign language, so he relies on reading lips. Maaaajor problem, especially at night or in the car. It’s a completely pathetic sight, due to a combination of factors: his deafness, my suckiness at Japanese, the fact that my attention span is shorter than Thanh, and especially thefact that neither Ryuko-san nor Peter (exchange kid) understand how to be polite in the other culture.
Exhibit A for our failure to communicate: in the car on the way back from picking him up-
Ryuko-san: “すしを食べますか” (Do you eat sushi?)
Me: “She wants to know if you eat sushi”
Peter: “What? Sorry, you’re going to have to speak up..”
Me: “Do you eat sushi?”
Peter (thinking I asked what he wanted to see): “What do I want to see? Oh, lots of things – the mountain, the morning market—“
Ryuko-san (hearing “morning market”): “あ!朝市で食べたいの?” (Oh! You want to eat at the morning market?)
Me: “Wait.. no.. she wants to know if you eat SUSHI”
Peter: “What? But what about the mountain? Are we going to Hakodate yama?”
Ryuko-san (hearing “Hakodate yama”): “あ!函館山へいきたい” (Ohh, you want to eat on the mountain!)
Me: “でも、どこで食べ物を買って行きましょうか?” (But where should we buy food from?)
Ryuko-san: “すしに決めなかった?もう聞いたね?” (Didn’t we decide on sushi? I thought you already asked him”
Peter: “I’m so excited to see the mountain, I’ve heard a lot about it! I’m liking Japan so much so far!”
Me: “But wait, do you—“
Ryuko-san: “Peter… Japan. You... like?”
Peter: “What?”
Me: “She wants to know if you like Japan”
Peter: “Japan?”
Me: “Yeah”
***We arrive at the sushi place**
Peter: “Oh, sushi? I didn’t know we were getting sushi – are there vegetarian options?”

Yes, after all that, he turned out being a vegetarian. Anyway, despite the failures on all our parts, this venture has shown me that I have come a long way in terms of my Japanese ability – I definitely don’t think I could have translated for another student at all at the beginning of this program. Granted, we have many failures, but it’s better than nothing, right? At least, that’s what I’m telling myself.
So also, major high of this week. Yesterday (Friday), Ryuko-san took us to the 神社(zinzya – Shinto shrine) again. Now, when we last left off, Ashok had horribly offended the high priest of the神社because of his failure at Japanese: not only had he entered the priest’s consultation room walking (you must open the door while on your knees, enter), he had unintentionally used the snippy ”分かりました” as the priest explained Japanese history, and he had forgotten all polite ways to say goodbye as the priest left, using the offensively casual “また会いましょう.” In short, he had done nearly everything wrong while meeting one of the most important figures of the town.
But this time was the chance for redemption. And yes, that redemption came in the form on Michael Jackson music. But we’ll get to that later. First, Ashok entered the priest’s office the proper way, understood most (or at least the keywords) of the priest’s questions, answered (and even used some pretty good honorific/humble speech), and, when called out in front of the entire shrine membership, even managed to talk a little bit. Yes, in short, he seemed like slightly less of a retard this time. This was major progress. But the best part was yet to come.
The ceremony was followed by dinner, at which Ashok had his first alcoholic beverage (no, this is not the best part). The high priest handed him a bowl of sake, referring to it as “sake from God.” There was really no way out of that one. Moving on. At the end of dinner, a karaoke started up. Ashok enjoyed himself, watching the people he had just befriended sing Japanese pop, rock, and ballads (some well, others… spiritedly). However, as the hour grew late and the dinner neared its close, the high priest called on Ashok for one last performance. “An English song will do,” said the priest. Although he tried to graciously refuse, the shrine’s membership had been too tempted by the thought of a foreigner singing American music to let Ashok slide. And, as he walked up to the karaoke machine, a cry came out for Michael Jackson songs. So of course, Ashok had to oblige, performing a rendition of “Beat It” that made angels cry. Or maybe it was cats. One or the other. Either way, he performer a full rendition of the song (replete with dance moves) for the high priest.

I was very happy, if you can’t tell. Come on, performing a Michael Jackson hit, knowing the dance moves, to a high priest of Shintoism. He will never ever forget me. Victory is mine. Anyone could have talked to him in decent, functional Japanese. No, I may not know how to use every humble expression perfectly, but I can bust a mean moonwalk.
Hem. Anyway, other highs of the shrine – I talked to a really cool old guy named Nakano-san (中野さん) and actually understood most of the conversation. We talked about America/the differences between American culture and Japanese culture (specifically focusing on introductions – one of our class vocab words came up and I was ecstatic that I remembered it). Then, after I mentioned India, we moved on to Indian culture/specifically Hinduism. Granted, I may not have been contributing much to the conversation, but I was very proud that I could understand him and give a little bit of input here and there. Yessss. But clearly, the Michael Jackson was more important.

Yeeah, to be honest, this entire post was really just to build up to the Michael Jackson story, I don’t have much else to say. Good night!

Saturday, July 11, 2009

Update, yay!

Soo, I haven’t posted in a while, so I figure it’s time to update everyone on the last week/bit. Last week, Stever sensei (one of our Japanese teachers from Yale) came for a site visit to HIF, which was both fun and really intimidating. She sat in on our classes and listened to us speak (which, of course, made me mess up and seem even dumber than usual) to evaluate the intensity level of the program. That night, she also took all the Yale kids to dinner – we had some pretty good stuff, ranging from fresh fresh sashimi to tofu curry. It was a great dinner, but also one that showed how many alcoholics are on this trip. Me and Malika were the only ones who didn’t drink anything. Since our teacher was paying, the kids went a little crazy with the alcohol. But anyway, getting the chance to talk to Stever sensei outside of class was really good – she’s super cool and down to earth, so she was able to give us some really good advice. Plus, she’s amazingly fluent in both English and Japanese, which is kind of the ideal for all of us (assumedly). Anyway, after that, classes continued in their normal uneventful turn. BUT, last week, we visited Asahi elementary school, a nearby school with K-6. It was perhaps the most adorable experience ever – the kids had “opening ceremonies” for us, which included teaching us some of their favorite games as well as their school dance. Not going to lie, their school dance is kind of awesome. And of course I still remember it. I want schools in America to have mandated large-scale dances like this. Can we make that happen? Anyway, some little kids delivered some speeches (also adorable) before we split up into individual classes. Each class was assigned a grade, in reverse correspondence to the level (1A got the oldest, 6th grade; we got 5th, etc., with the highest class getting kindergarteners). Anyway, in our classes, we were supposed to teach a game. We ended up teaching them the game “Big Booty,” but translated into Japanese – “Oshiri”
Ooooooshiri, oshiri, oshiri
Oh hai, oshiri
Oshiri ichiban
Ichiban yonban
Etc.
It was really fun, but my explanation of the rules in Japanese was really awful, so it took the kids a little bit of time to catch on. It was yet another humbling moment where I got closer to fully understanding how bad I am at this language. Oh well. We had a good time. And then, the kids gave little speeches thanking us (trying to use English whenever possible, which was also really funny). But I’ve decided – Japanese kids are just significantly better than American ones. They’re quieter, they dance, and they’re just adorable. I’m working on a plan to steal one before I return.
So those were the main highlights of that week. This week! Many an interesting/unpleasant thing. So first semester officially ended today (Thursday) with our semester end exam. Surprisingly, the test was nowhere near as bad as I thought it would be. I mean, his testing format is still not great (he asks very general fill-in-the-blank questions but expects specific answers – e.g. Because I drove _____, I got into an accident. My answer: Because I drove too quickly, I got into an accident. I got it wrong, as he wanted: Because I drove while talking on the phone), but the test went pretty well. But before the test, we had the annual speech contest. Now, this sounds much more impressive than it actually is – when they say speech, they mean a roughly 5 minute talk on a predetermined talk. Our class didn’t actually have a topic, though, so you essentially could write about anything. I completely made up a garbage essay about culture shock and the differences between America and Japan. I chose said topic because he stressed the importance of having a message in our speech. Now, this is a problem, mainly because I have the vocabulary of… a 3rd grader. But I was trying to write on a topic that was more my age. Which made the speech sound ridiculous. A fairly literal translation of part of my speech:

Since Hakodate and NY are very different, there is a lot to learn. For example, before coming to Japan, I had never seen a Shinto shrine. My host mother goes to shrines a lot, so after I came, we started to go together. I didn’t know about Shintoism before, but now I know a little more. There are lots of other things I did for the first time. NY does not have farms, so I had never done farmwork. But my host family lives on a farm, so there’s always work.

Yeah, it was kinda pathetic. Yesterday (Wednesday) was our in class contest, where we all delivered our final products while being graded by our peers. Almost everyone had really good speeches (Victor told a really intense story about being mugged and how every day needs to be appreciated), so I ended up giving everyone like... above a 95. I would be an awful teacher. Anyway, the winner from the class goes on to deliver their speech in front of all of HIF at the international hotel we stayed at for the first week. Annd, as (my awful, cursed) luck would have it, my sensei (for some reason that I do not yet understand) thought I did the best in my class and chose me to speak for our class. This worries me for two reasons. One, I’m concerned for our class’s image if my speech was the best one. I’m going to get up there in front of a bunch of Japanese people, not to mention the really advanced HIF kids, and be like:

I was born and raised in New York. There are a lot of people from foreign countries there. There is also a museum called the Met. I went there when I was 6. There was an exhibit about Japan, so I became interested in Japanese culture.

Our class will actually look somewhat developmentally challenged. Second, I just don’t like speaking in front of people. It will not be fun. Oh, and third, sensei also chose another kid from our class (for whom I voted to give the speech) who is super ridiculously amazing at Japanese and definitely should not be in our level. But he’s going to get up there before me and deliver his really complicated speech about being trilingual and adjusting to the challenges of studying abroad, only to have me follow up with:

Wherever you go, family is important. My family does lots of things for me. My host mother does a lot of things for me too. She’s not my real mother, but she does a lot of things my real mother does. She teaches me cooking and helps me with my homework.

Seriously? It’s going to be the most retarded thing ever. Anyway, that’s my mini rant. Annnd I’m going to go to bed because I’m tired and my computer’s about to die. Night!

Friday, July 3, 2009

Some frustrating things

I figure I have to include a post about the troubles/problems I've had so far, so as to keep some degree of objectivity here. So the main inconvenience so far has been the lack of internet at my house, coupled with my teacher's frequent decisions to have assignments due by email. For the first few weeks, not having internet access was ok - I could get whatever I needed done at HIF and then not have to worry about it the rest of the day. But for the last two weeks or so, we've been having graded email pen pal assignments. So he'd have us write drafts, bring them in for peer editing, and have the final copy mailed out that night. Or, in even worse cases, we'd email him the compositions by class time, he'd correct/email them back to us some time after class, and we'd correct/mail out the same day. For most people, this wasn't too much of a problem, because most of the host families have some form of internet access in their houses. But for me and a few other people, this has really been difficult - today (Saturday), for example - our speeches (for the annual speech contest) were corrected yesterday after school, and our next drafts are due today by 5. I had to take the train into Hokkaido and find a cafe that has free internet access. All in all, sending the one email took about... an hour of travel (and another one back). Granted, it's not too bad - I'm meeting Thanh and Juan Miguel to climb Mount Hakodate again. And Juan Miguel's going to try the ice cream challenge after that. So it's not horribly inconvenient. I just came in an hour and a half earlier than we have to meet.
Anyway, inconvenience number two: traveler's checks. These seemed like a great idea at the time we got them - can't be used if stolen, so little risk of having them around. Sounds really convenient, eh? False. Almost no places in Hakodate accept traveler's checks, so exchange is only possible at two places: the bank or the international hotel. The bank has a good exchange rate, but is only open weekdays from 9 to 3. Since HIF takes up most of my time between language and culture classes, getting to the bank (which is kind of far from HIF) is not feasible most days. The international hotel, on the other hand, is much closer, but is a complete ripoff (last I checked, exchange rate was in the low 80s per dollar) and is only available to hotel guests. So this last week, I've been pretty busy and haven't had the chance to get money from anywhere. Gah. Little frustrating. Mini rant. Sorry.

But that being said, these are really minor things - I hope it doesn't sound like these really matter. I'm living pretty low-cost, so I don't need to exchange that often anyway, and I've gotten my assignments in on time. It's really not that big of a deal, but I figure I should paint a somewhat fuller picture of my stay. Anyway, I've got to run and meet up with people for our mountain hike.